Asia

Surakarta (or Solo) and Yogyakarta: two rival cities – Indonesia

SOLO

We started from Solo. Although we did not find much information about this town, we trusted our instincts and we were happy of it. Surakarta, or Solo, located about 65 kilometers from Yogyakarta (the ancient capital of the kingdom of Mataran), is one of the most important centers of Javanese culture. Considered Yogyakarta’s eternal rival, Solo is much less affected by tourism. In addition to an interesting central market, the city has an entire district dedicated to the sale of batik, where locals go for shopping.

From Solo, you can take a one-day trip to the Hindu temples of Candi Cetoh and Candi Sukuh, located about 900 meters above sea level, on the slopes of the Lawu volcano, which is considered sacred by Javanese. Built before the spread of Islam, they are considered as the most ancient Hindu temples of Java, combining elements of Shivaism and the cult of fertility with clear references to male and female sexual symbols and numerous erotic images.

Several buses leave from Surakarta and once you arrive at the terminal, you can take – as we did too – two ojecks (scooters) with drivers. Note that if you are a bit heavier, at some point, while climbing up, you will have to get off the scooter and walk… as Ale did.

YOGYAKARTA

Yogyakarta is the cultural capital of Java. The true heart of the classical Javanese art and traditional culture, Yogya – as its inhabitants call it – is a lively and busy city. We recommend staying there for a few days, also for its proximity to places of interest such as the temple of Prambanan, Borobudur, and the Dieng Plateau.

Among its attractions:

  • The Kraton Complex, an actual city where 25,000 people lived. On the inside, it houses the immense palace of the sultan, the Taman Sari (also known as “castle on the water” or “fragrant garden”).
  • The Yogyakarta Craft Center and the Agastya Institute of Art: two of the most important local handicraft centers, especially for the batik production.
  • The Kota Gede district has been popular since the 1930s as a center of the silver industry.
  • The Bird Market on the outskirts of the city offers a glimpse of Javanese passion for “pets”. Here you can find birds of any species including bats (they are not birds, but they do have wings…) and snakes, lizards, chameleons, and many more.
  • Malioboro Street. In Sanskrit, the word Malioboro means “bouquets of flowers”. In fact, in ancient times, when an event was celebrated at the Palace, this street was decorated with bouquets of flowers. Despite the passage of time, Malioboro Street has remained the commercial street and the place where official events are still celebrated.