Uzbekistan, despite its size and importance, remains a destination outside main touristic routes. But the country has a lot to offer, thanks to thousands of years of history.
Once landed we were immediately eager to start, we felt like new Marco Polo.
Uzbekistan cities are very different, Tashkent, the capital, that preserves it soviet charm, or Samarcanda, Kivha and Bukhara, the so called Pearls of the East, once important commercial towns along the Silk Road.
TASHKENT
Our trip started in Tashkent. There is not much to see, but anyway it is worth stopping by to breath its dual soul, the soviet and Islamic. The two style are visible everywhere, along the street, in the markets, elegant mosques and huge government buildings. Independence Square is dominated by the Senate palace; here, during national holidays, occur huge military parades. You should have a look also at the monumental metro system, main stations are decorated with marble and mosaic.
KHIVA
After Tashkent, with a short one hour flight, we land in Urgench, only 30 km from the wonderful Kivha. Our small family hotel was only few steps from the citadel. We arrive in the evening, so we go straight to bed to get ready for the next morning. We need energy and an amazing breakfast is waiting for us: home baked sweets and home-made jam, fruits and warm bread. What a start! With our full bellies we are now ready to explore the town.
The old part – Ichon-Qala – is extremely well preserved and gives an idea of what ancient central Asia towns could look like. We enter from one the four main gates and everything looks perfect. Here you can find all the main monuments. Green-blue minarets, floral decorations, sand colored buildings create a unique atmosphere. I close my eyes and I imagine its narrow streets crowded with merchants, stalls, animals, and all around this magnificent architecture turning gold at sunset. We suggest to climb the Islom-Huja minaret late afternoon to have a breathtaking view of the old town.
In the evening we have dinner outside at a small restaurant, they serve wonderful shashlik, a marinated and roasted meat skewers, Russian-Asian style.
The next morning we get up early as we head towards Bukhara. We share a taxi with another couple, we negotiated a price with a local driver for the 5 hours trip across the Kizilkum desert. To save money we take a car without air conditioning… and we realized too late it was a very bad idea. It seems like someone had an hair dryer at full power straight in our face, we suffer, but we make it. Once arrived we were all melted like ice cream in a desert.
Bukhara
Bukhara is a wonderful town very well preserved, we suggest at least 2 days to visit it.
Walking in the old town you’ll find yourself in a tangle of narrow streets, small shops and stalls. In the covered markets (called Taqi), small artisan shop are everywhere, and men work head down in the dark like.
The Kalom minaret is one of the city symbols and is located in a wonderful square surrounded by the Mir-i-Arab madras, a very important and still active Koranic school. Other monument worth a visit are the Ulughbek madras, and the complex of Lyabi Khovuz and Chor Minor.
For a snack or even for dinner we suggest to stop at Lyab-i-Hauz square. At the center you can find one of the few remaining howz (ponds). Till the soviet period in fact, Bakhara had many of this ponds, used mainly to gather water; after a while they realized this could help spreading diseases, so they have been progressively close. Lyab-i-Hauz survived because it sits at the center of a wonderful complex and today represents the heart of old Bukhara nightlife with great choice of bars and restaurants.
